Showing posts with label tech. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tech. Show all posts

Friday, June 11, 2010

Don't buy Tiresome Hype

Few who study Artaud realize that when he advised, "Don't tire yourself more than need be," he was referring to heavy bicycle tires. Don't let the puncture-proof hype trick you into loading down your wheels with overweight tires. Even the heaviest tires get flats. If not in the tread, then the rim or spokes, valve hole or sidewall.

On really hot days, I have had some small-wheel ( They dissipate heat poorly ) valves melt out of the tube! Usually, this happened when parked in the sun after miles of riding on hot pavement. What tire stops that? Embarrassing.

In my youth, we used to ride delicate sew-up racing tires on gravel covered mountain roads with no unusual amount of flats.

Few people know how to efficiently fix flats anymore. In the old glory days of profitable bike shops with large staffs we trained our customers to fix flats and do lots of routine maintenance when they bought a bike; for free. I had to lay those two guys off years ago, and now when we do maintenance classes I'm so busy I hire a paid "repair consultant" that people pay to see in action while I go back to work.

Bike clubs used to share repair information but now the clubs are generally small and clic-ey, not clubby like the old days.

A bike with lightweight wheels is a true joy to ride. Tires can be both durable and light. My favorite touring bike can use three different tires that, together, are lighter than one of the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires--not that the Pluses don't have their place in remote areas and long distances on gravel roads or no roads. One thing to think about: Why spend the money on a lightweight bike if you are going to put several pounds of tires on it?

"I may be a living legend, but that sure don't help when I've got to change a
flat tire."

— Roy Orbison

Anyway folks, Get a rim, an old tire ( practice can be hard on tires ), some tire tools and a patch kit, then practice until you have no skin on your hands, wash up, repeat and develop confidence. When you ride with me, I fix your flats because I hate standing in the cold, or hot, or rain or snow while I watch people struggle. You only get one lesson from me, so observe well. Next time on the road, I wait up the road in a climate-controlled building for you to arrive with your new found self-sufficiency.

One tool tip: Some tire & rim combos are really tight; especially when the tire is new. A "Var Tire Tool" wishbone install jack is a small, easy-to-carry tire installer that allows you to get the tire bead on that last inch. If you can't find them easily, I sell and ship them all over the USA.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Guarding against Bike Theft

Rita Coolidge said, "Many of us have heard opportunity knocking at our door, but by the time we unhooked the chain, pushed back the bolt, turned two locks, and shut off the burglar alarm--it was gone." Never let fear spoil your bike trip.


Some people
never take
chances
While theft is a legitimate fear, there are usually much bigger concerns on any bicycle journey. Obviously, in high crime areas you should not leave your bike unattended, and these areas are best avoided unless no alternative exists to your objective. My experience from over thirty-five years in the bike business is that the overwhelming number of stolen bicycles are stolen when left unlocked. The environs of certain bike theft zones, like NYC and Boston, certainly being exceptions but with good locks millions of cyclists park their bikes and find them where they left it when they return every day.

Bike theft can be a problem anywhere, and bikes priced well into four digits USD are not unusual nowadays. Locking it where you can keep and eye on it, and asking shopkeepers, waitstaff and others to "please keep an eye on it" while you attend to the needful will go a long way (it is nice to travel with a pal sometimes). When exploring a new environ, a local bike shop will typically be glad to store your bike for a few hours. I always buy supplies when visiting a local shop, as a practical token of good-will.

Even a minimally loaded touring bike (especially one with drop bars) is not much of a theft target compared to a shiny new department store mountain bike. Even a stupid thief is going to figure that the owner is close by a bike loaded with gear, and how wise is it to tangle with a hundred-mile per day cyclist fresh off a break? A good lock used religiously (I know it is a pain) will go a long way to preserving your bike.

Asian model

A theft-proof lock is of no value if it is too cumbersome for you to engage consistently while traveling. One solution is a type of frame lock that, while de rigueur in Europe and Asia, has not caught on yet in the United States. This lock conveniently mounts on the seat stays, and quickly secures the bike by means of a rectractable circular shaft that immobilizes the rear wheel, preventing "ride off" thefts. For additional security, a simple vinyl coated wire-rope can be looped around a bike rack, through your helmet, pannier loops and frame and finally secured to the same shaft. We carry a very nice German made model. Should you venture to the Far East, you can pick up the less beefy Asian equivalent for spare change on many urban street corners.

An empty holster slung over the handlebars and a conspicuously discarded Winchester box can send a message too.

"If I had only known,
I would have
been a locksmith."
—A. Einstein

Take valuables with you and keep a stash of emergency cash and credit cards in more than one spot. A burn wallet with your daily cash needs is a good idea when venturing into a place where you might be robbed by confrontation. Being bike-less and penniless in a strange town is much worse than being just bike-less.

There is always insurance--renters, homeowners, special sports equipment or travel policy. Mark sure it is a replacement cost policy. Insurance companies have tables that will make anything purchased yesterday worth nothing when you file a claim--the miracle of voodoo depreciation. Make sure it covers your gear too, as gear might exceed the cost of the bike. Find out details of how to file a claim, and the conditions and meet them, before your trip, not after.

As Jenny Jones of London Parliament says, "Part of the joy of cycling is the ability to stop off where you want, nip into a shop, have a quick coffee and do all those little things along your route that are more awkward when traveling by bus, Tube or cab."

Monday, March 2, 2009

RE favors the VAR wishbone


"We shall not fail or falter; we shall not weaken or tire…Give us the tools and we will finish the job."
—W. L. Churchill

When your tire does weaken and falter, RandonneurExtra recommends that you make life easier by making the VAR tool your bead jack of choice for removing and fitting tyres of all sizes.

You'll handily finish the job in time for tea, for as Sir Churchill said,
"Difficulties mastered are opportunities won."

Monday, February 2, 2009

Sometimes, you just can't Beat the Drum!


Not THAT kind of drum!

Paul "Butch Cassidy" Newman, who performs his own bicycle stunts, advises that it is too late to put on the brakes once you're upside-down, but a set of Sturmey-Archer drum brakes will stop your bike, and easily toss you over the bars if used haphazardly! I was so impressed that I bought a pair (drum brake hubs) front and rear for an old Raleigh Gran Sport. No maintenance, clean rims, weather-proof, large strong flanges—Cool!

The standard supplied brake levers for the hubs are JUNK, however. They are nylon, are flexible and have limited travel. As far as I'm concerned, they're unsafe and non-functional. We have sold hundreds of the old Pashley Roadsters with these brakes, front and rear, coupled with mountain bike levers with Zero complaints. My personal bike had Campagnolo Record road levers and, again, you can easily lock-up both wheels, but they have better modularity than linear-pull brakes. Linear-pull and disk brakes require less hand pressure to lock-up the wheel than the SA drum brake, but you have to wonder if being able to easily lock-up a wheel is a good thing.

Braking at the hub will make for a bit more spoke stress than rim braking, but since drum brakes have better modularity than disks they will stress the spokes less. Rim brakes are less stressful to the spokes than drums or discs. I suppose it is a proportional game (or caper if you are a KiWi or Oz resident).


A drum that's hard to beat!
Eight internal gears to boot!

While it worked, I found that, for me, the Aria Drum Brake lost it's effectiveness quickly with use. I preferred the Canti's, with good pads on mine. While not designed for a tandem, I have never had any problem with the newer (since about 2000) Sturmey-Archer drum brakes. They have primarily had alloy 90mm hub shells but as I recall the steel ones worked fine.

Set-up with the Sturmey-Archer is a non issue, really: Adjust the bearing, clamp the brake-reaction arm down, use decent brake levers, quality cables, take slack out of cable, apply pressure to handle, stop. I feel like they are as simple as you can get.

Good, well placed cable-stops will help any brake. Santana Tandems going back over twenty-five years have some of the best, and had big cables in the old days.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Bobbie Martin can't let a Good Bike Die

An MK3 rebuilt from ashes
by Bobbie Martin

The Raleigh-manufactured Moulton Mark Three predated the space frame in the early 1970's. Though non-separable, these bikes were noted for their smooth and solid riding characteristics. The rear suspension rubber "Squash Ball" and lower pivot resemble the modern Moultons produced today.


I bought this bike a while back after it had been in a fire. With the help of my friend John Greenwood, we were able to restore it using mostly modern components.


As it was so bad to start with, I never considered restoring to original, and we decided to upgrade it using modern components.


The fire had melted all the plastic & nylon parts.


The fire had melted all the rubber parts as well, including the squashball!


The rear swing-arm was widened to 135mm and a new wheel with a Nexus 8-speed hub installed.


The Raleigh 26tpi bottom-bracket was rethread to standard BSC threading and cut down to the normal width. We used a Shimano UN72 BB, but still had to cut the rings slightly.

The new crank is a Campagnolo Triomphe—one I had on hand. I have always liked the look of these. This one has been modified for a single outer chainring (53 tooth).


The front wheel was built-up with a narrow flange Sansin hub spaced to 88mm to fit the MK3 front forks. Velocity USA supplied a pair of hard to find 36 spoke 16" Aeroheat rims. Tires are Schwalbe Marathons.


It was ready to ride by New Year's.


A local vinyl sign company duplicated the original decals. John Greenwood, a friend of mine, has done most of the work you see…


…including cutting down the front axle and skewer, giving us a nice quick-release front wheel that works like a champ.
New Squashball provided by Moulton Preservation.


He also machined new rear swing-arm bushings from Delrin.


We also added a few braze-ons for a water bottle and fender stays.


Here is the finished product. Powder-coated red frame & rack, with silver-vein mudguards and a black swingarm. Campy Triomphe crank with 53 T chainring, and Brooks saddle.


Finished out with a Nitto stem, handlebars, upper headset from an APB FX8 and an Avocet 30 cyclocomputer.

The bike rides great with the Nexus hub. All it needs now is the proper rack bag!

Thanks,
—Bobbie Martin


Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson
North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Scandium Schmandium

Element 21 on the periodic chart, Scandium, is a very rare metal, produced as a by-product of uranium processing, with little commercial applications—outside of marketing!

That said, the scandium-aluminum alloy frames that I have seen are impressively light by very-light standards and seem to hold up well. The tubing is however, in my humble opinion, no good for loaded touring. It is one of the stings of the miracle disposable racing tube sets that seem to be everywhere. Loaded touring, I feel, puts more stress on a bike than racing. Having broken my share of racing and touring frames, I feel that almost any will fail given enough miles, but super-light tubing is just that, and will have a shorter road life.

On a sad note, we have a friend of the shop that had a Scandium bike built by a major manufacturer. After less than 2000 trouble-free miles, he brought it into the shop for an annual look-over and what was found was that the right-rear chainstay was cracking in two! After telling the fellow the bad news, it got worse: the other chainstay was broken half way around too!

This unnamed manufacturer probably has many thousands of these bikes on the road and most of them probably are fine, if used as intended. I hope this is an anomaly, but it makes you wonder. It's hard to beat steel for reliability. But aluminum, in the same weight range, is probably just as reliable. However no one makes heavier aluminum frames anymore, except for sale at Wal-Mart—and those are are much heavier than steel frames and, from our experience, much less reliable.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Sitting downtown at a railway station, one spoke over the line…

More Spokes→Stronger Wheel

There are designs with just 1, 2, 3, 4 and even, believe it or not, zero spokes out there. As I recall, only the 3- and 4-spoke carbon wheels gained any commercial viability.

Punching spoke holes into a rim
Punching spoke holes into a rim
It's not the spoke count that matters; it is the spoke count and everything else. Gauge, wheel size, style, material, rim, dish flange design, and of course construction details and tension make a strong wheel. If you find the need to true a 36-holer less often than a otherwise equal 32-spoke wheel a fair man might conclude a 36-hole wheel is stronger. Taking away structural material does not necessarily make a wheel stronger (e.g. double-butted spokes). Rather it can improve certain characteristics, but can also adversely effect other characteristics (e.g. stiffness). This is important for some, less important for others.

The modern aero deep dish rims that use 20 spokes (or less) are plenty strong with a low spoke count. But look at those massive (and heavy) rims. The rims are incredible for brute strength and stiffness and simply require less spokes. Now, resistance to rim cracking and longevity seem to be a problem in my shop compared to traditional wheels; so there is a trade-off there.

As for breaking spokes: Properly selected components for intended use and properly built wheels don't break spokes in normal use. They can, with advancing years, but the rims usually wear out first, from my experience. For racing and fun you can always cheat the odds and go a little lighter, but durability suffers.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Blue Bike Transporter

The Blue bike transporter with the sturdy wrap around kickstand is a delightful bike. It is a very common commuting and shopping bike, made by Bridgestone in Japan. Not light, but very practical, with three sealed internal gears, rear hub brake and oil-less belt drive to keep your paints clean. The front lamp is powered by a Sanyo® brand generator front hub coupled to a photo-sensitive lamp that turns on and and off automatically as needed. The front basket is a tight weave, such that coins won't even fall out. The rear basket converts from basket to baby seat, and then to old Rudge bike carrier (one of our long term employees actually tours the countryside on that Rudge.)
Blue Bike Transporter
Bridgestone delivering the Rudge!

The remarkable Bridgestone bike has rims made from Stainless Steel, not chrome like the poser's use. Sorry folks, they are both spoken for.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
Our newest direct local Yanceyville Area phone is 336-421-4054
Toll Free Research Triangle Area, NC area 919-828-8999
Toll free Nationwide 800-321-5511
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Bikes? Prices start at Zero (and go up)!

trash-bike
What's it worth to YOU?
*mart trashbike or snobbish luxury cycle—a false dichotomy

The most valuable bike is the one you use, ride, treasure, spend time, enjoy, delight in looking at, admire the utility, find trouble free, find low maintenance, find fastest, find climbs the best…etc, on and on. I sell some fantastically expensive bikes and own several (deferring many car payments to afford them) but, I am often as happy with a more modest mount and enjoy cycling on inexpensive thrift store finds very much.

Now, it may sound elitist when you find out one of my "modest mounts" costs in the $2000-2500.00 range. I am not wealthy by any means. My dog does not have a mink coat. It is amazing what kind of bicycles you can afford if you spend thirty-five years earning a simple living and putting all your spare cash into the bikes without the burden of alimony or child support. I know dozens of people that own over fifty pro-quality racing bicycles (some decades old) and live by modest means. It's all what floats your boat.

I have met a number of travelers on department store bikes camping and touring great distances. These bikes, as offered, were truly not roadworthy by any half measure. These travelers' tales of woe and substantial mechanical failures would turn most people away from cycling forever—in less than a week. If you ignored safety (bad idea), most of these products just fell apart. As a lad of ninety-nine pounds when I received my first 26-inch wheel, balloon tired, bike I thought it would last forever. I never jumped or abused that bike at all but it, along with three replacements over the years, all failed at the frame from simple riding. None were subjected to touring loads.

It could be argued that department store bikes today are superior to those of old and, in many ways, it is true. The trouble is that when anything is built with price as THE major factor in the design criteria, everything is compromised. Case in point: the new Aluminum Mongoose that a *mart shopper drug into the store the other day—$225.00 and it weighed 48 LB! We normally expect light-weight when there is a move to aluminum! Not on this one. The sad thing is these bikes fail in so many ways, and so often, that repairing then is unaffordable; another poor failure prone bike is purchased as a replacement, and the buying/disappointment cycle is repeated. No one will become a serious cyclist on a bike that does not fully function.

As Peter White pointed out, a department store bike with rebuilt wheels is a heavily modified bike. Often, good replacement wheels cost in excess of the bike on which they would be installed. Is it not the age old dilemma: polishing a turd—outcome doubtful?

I certainly am not trying to criticize anyone's purchase decisions, but everyone that owns a department store level bike would genuinely appreciate a bike shop grade bike if they use it at all. Amazingly (to me), entry-level bike-shop bikes are LESS costly than top-end department store bikes and are not only better equipped, ride better and lighter, but, in addition to being properly assembled, they often have valuable service and parts warranties thrown into the deal!

Avoid false economy. You don't have to buy new either. Now with flea markets, eBay, and its surrogates (not to mention the rest of the prestigious internet) most people can educate themselves and buy a second-hand bike that is of very high quality and very suitable for their use for a modest sum.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Hey, keep your hands where I can see 'em!

Gilbert's René Herse Démontable
Before cable-splitters were readily available, bikes with seperable frames solved the cable problem by mounting the shift levers on the same frame section as the derailleurs.
Shift levers on the SEAT tube?

We René Herse Démontable owners refer to those things as crotch shifters, and I must say reaching back there and fiddling is fun indeed! Actually, the bike performs flawlessly and, in practice, the shifting is very easy to get used to. A very tall rider might have a bit of trouble reaching back, but for most of us, «ce n'est pas un problème».

Cable-splitters had not been developed at the time the Herse Démontable was introduced. It is not unlikely that someone, somewhere, had produced them at some great expense and trouble, but this was an expensive bike and hard to produce in single numbers, so little time was invested in the cable-split solution.

Gilbert's René Herse Démontable
Gilbert's René Herse Démontable

The first photo of the Démontable Herse that I saw was a city bike (le Porteur?) from about 1960. These normally had a single chainwheel and perhaps five rear cogs; designed to go from auto to park road in an instant. The five-speed shifter presented few difficulties in use. I suspect that cyclotourists and a few racers saw the démontable idea as a handy way to carry their cycle with them with a MINIMUM of FUSS. It knocks down VERY QUICKLY. A démontable can be completely separated and have the bars tuned parallel in 10-15 seconds with practice. By comparison, you might spend that long just finding an S&S coupler tool.

Alex Moulton's cable-splitter
Alex Moulton's cable-splitter

In 1982, Alex Moulton introduced his space-frame AM2 and AM7. While the AM2 (two speed kickback with coaster brake) had no rear cables to fiddle with, the AM7 (seven-speed rear shifting derailleur gears) and it's child, the AM14 (dual-chainwheel fourteen-speed), had two and three cables to fiddle with respectively, with shifting and brakes. Alex used a much more conventional down-tube shifter mounted to a stainless steel démontable plate (actual name). The same 6mm allen key (stowed in a cute little holder under the saddle) removed the seat pillar (the pump was inside the pillar), tilted and turned the bars (with captive bolts that would not fall out) and removed the démontable shifting plate bolt to allow the shifters and a cam mechanism for the rear brake separation (complex) to be brought to the rear half of the frame whereupon they reattached to a duplicate brazed-on boss. While this procedure was relatively simple and quick, a couple of years later he introduced the stainless steel cable-splitters that are now common on take-a-part bikes of many stripes.

I'm not sure if he invented these items, but, knowing his passion for patenting everything, if he would have some sort of worldwide notice of the fact. I feel confident Alex Moulton was certainly the first to use cable-splitters in a production setting, as he built thousands of bikes before the clones of the mechanism were developed.

What seems like a simple idea now was in need of serious development effort before the idea was to come to life. WE are surrounded by examples of this in every day life.

Leather--The New Old Health craze!

Brooks: "Leather is Healthy"

A favorite of Cyclosportifs world-wide, Brooks Saddles are handbuilt in Britain and equipped on Pashley and many Moulton Cycles. What follows is an excerpt from the Brooks 1934 publication "Brooks Saddles: Best for Riding". For more up-to-date information, see the Brooks England LTD website.
LEATHER IS HEALTHY

Reverting to seats constructed of leather, it is difficult to appreciate, from appearance only, the difference between the first grade article and the next best, but in reality the explanation is perfectly simple. Brooks Cow For Brooks Saddles only the "Butt" of a hide is employed : this, as will be seen from the illustration, is only the middle portion of the whole hide, and commands a much higher price. It is only by the use of such material, however, that the quality of Brooks Saddles can be maintained, and the experience of many thousands of cyclists confirms the value of this wise precaution. Saddles cut from butts, grease dressed during manufacture, are practically waterproof, yet capable of "breathing" in a healthy manner ; this means that a Brooks Saddle never becomes "clammy" and is always cool to the rider, thereby considerably conducting comfort on a long journey, especially in hot weather. In the cutting of the butts into saddle blanks, the avoidance of warble marks (caused by an insect that attacks the animal in life), barbed wire scratches and other blemishes in otherwise perfect hides, naturally involves waste and a comparative increase in production cost. The user, however, has the assurance that the extra cost is reasonable in that it guarantees the use of unblemished material in the saddle of his selection. Cheaper saddles cannot afford Brooks quality leather, and it is in the rider's interest that Brooks Saddles are clearly marked on both flaps and at the rear with the name BROOKS.

Brooks: Best for Riding

Brooks film fest


Support the Bicycle Film Festival with Brooks England and the Green Swallow 100 BFF Limited.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Friday, January 30, 2009

New Series Movie: The Innovative Engineer—Alex Moulton

A video documentary interview for Bath University Engineering Department Training. Fascinating; really, Free Movie.

Download: [ GVP ] [ AVI / MP4 ]


I had this as a video but now it is in the public domain. It is better with a high-speed connection.

Please understand that this is a late 1990's film with older bikes featured, as they have changed a bit since then, but the movie is fascinating none the less. Please feel free to email or call with questions (calling is better as somethings are hard to explain without real-time interaction!).

The video is 20 minutes long and a high-speed connection is recommended for the optimal experience. Audio is okay with slow-speed but some might wish to go to Google Videos and download the whole movie for best playback.

Our Nickname: "Our Friend the Steel"

This is an early film of the design and development of the revolutionary Alex Moulton New Series bicycle. Although the bicycle has been updated considerably since it's introduction the design and engineering fundamentals are insist-rated here. Interview with Dr. Alex Moulton himself and lots of Moulton history and shots of his lovely home and grounds near Bath in England. North Road Bicycle proudly imports all forms of Moulton Bicycles for USA sales and distribution.

Best Quote: "Nobody Owns the Laws of Nature."

Best Observation: Alex's Ink-Method of idea incubation & illustration


More Moulton Movies:
More on the New-Series:

What, The Wheel Size?

Hello folks,

Forget 700c fixed-wheels. The high-wheelers are the ultimate city bike; view traffic hazards from a trucker's perspective—eye to eye. It is very intimidating to them and they give your wide berth, which is a good thing, as cars don't see you at all and turn rather impulsively in front of you. The High-wheeler has a fixed-wheel drive, which is all the rage with the ladies; especially the Gothic bike-gang types we like to swoon over in our fair city.

No real brakes, of course, are a FEATURE that adds to the danger in traffic and the possibility of certain death from this, the ultimate two-wheel high wire act. It's only a matter of time before Ford tools up their old bike production line and we see one like the new-old mustang production.

On wheels noted earlier and below:

Triathletes often have bikes equipped with smaller than ATB (ATB are nominally 26x1.5-2.125 559mm ISO) 650 C (nominally 26 inch wheel 571 mm ISO) wheels. The 650 B size (demi Balloon nominally 26x1-1/2 inch 584 mm ISO) is actually an older French touring standard size that sits between the modern ATB (thorn 26 noted below) and the common 700c (622 mm ISO) road diameter. The Triathlon racing wheel noted is actually a 650c (nominally 26x1 inches 571 mm ISO) which is an old Schwinn Balloon Cruiser 26x1-3/4 nice narrowed up for race use. I hope I got this correct?

On rolling resistance that latest wisdom that some people have claimed is that wider tires have less rolling resistance. this goes against the intuitive reasoning that says that the 700x18 mm tire is faster than a 700x25. "The wider the better," some say, "and we have testing to prove it." Continental did some original testing on their equipment and found that their 700x25 tires had lower rolling resistance than their 700x23 tires a few years back. They attributed this to the larger tire having a smaller, but perpendicular, contact patch (compared to the longer, parallel contact patch of the narrower tire). Seems reasonable.

Thorn claims that their 26 inch (ATB size tires) have lower rolling resistance than larger wheels. While I have not seen this, I do not doubt this statement, but I will say that in bicycles, as in all things, this "DEPENDS." If wider is truly better, the Triathletes would certainly gravitate away from their skinny 650c x20-23 tires (nominally 26x1 inches 571 mm ISO) to the faster Schwinn Balloon Cruiser tire 26x1-3/4 (571 x47 size 571 mm ISO) and watch the records be broken! This will not happen for many reasons, chief among them it would be impossible. Between these similar diameter tires (wider tires are taller tires too!) the wider tire has so much more rolling resistance that the narrow one might have lower rolling resistance riding on the rim uninflated. I personally set a personal best in a Time Trial years ago placing second riding 23-miles on a flat front tire in a 25-mile event. Very tricky and I would have never attempted it but a fellow in New Jersey placed first or second in the national championship 8-9 months earlier doing essentially the same thing; not by choice of course.

There are so many variables: tread, tread compound, casing fabric, thread count, width of rim, air pressure, diameter, weights of various components and the biggest are the limits of testing equipment, time and budget. The old skinny tired high wheelers had very low rolling resistance. This could be as much because of the hard (high pressure before it was cool) solid tires as the large wheels compliance to irregular pavement (sort of a suspension system of the day).

The Alex Moulton small wheel bikes we sell have been tested many times on rolling resistance and always test very well ( tops in many tests) regardless of testing style even though many claimed tests for rolling resistance did not account for other variables, An older version of this bike holds the world land speed record for upright bikes and many older HPV records were set with the newer (at the time) high performance, high pressure 17 inch wheel (most Moultons use 20-inch wheels these days). The absolute world land speed records set behind automobiles on the Bonneville salt flats are over 160 mph and they have been set with 20-inch (nominal) wheels. While I don't feel that smaller 17-20-24-26 inch wheels are necessarily faster than 700c or larger wheels my experience is they are not slower either and similar setups can vary quite a bit for a number or reasons. I was recently at a gathering of small wheel bikes in Philadelphia where, after climbing nearly 400 vertical feet in a mile, I was treated to a long steep downhill in company. After a slow start down I realized a downhill race was formulating ( my specialty). A fellow on a late model Bike Friday had about a 200 foot head-start before I realized the game was on. He was loaded with a hefty belt/backpack for the weekend and was sailing. Even though I had a very unaerodynamic handlebar bag, mudguards and rear rack and small bag I not only caught but passed him going about 4 mph faster than his 43 mph top speed all the time coasting. We had similar wheels, tires (20-inch 120 psi) and overall weight. His body, luggage and bike were probably more aerodynamic than my setup. What was the variable? I suspect it was that the Moulton has a full front and rear road tuned suspension and this may have lowered the rolling resistance but who is to know.

Conclusions and Observations:

Most rolling resistance tests rely heavily on downhill coasting contests that test ease of pedaling more than actual rolling resistance. I have seen some that tested coasting UPHILL, A small wheel bike with lighter wheels and less wheel momentum will be handicapped in this test but a heavy larger wheel wheel will often have an advantage.

IS wider better?
Perhaps, but only to a point. On a very wide tire the contact patch can grow and the aerodynamic handicap increases, tire pressure generally decreases, and the weight increases, all affecting performance and test results in a negative way.

Most tests have shown conclusively that higher air pressure tires do lower rolling resistance, but a rough surface can makes this figure go the other way unless road-tuned suspension is added.

Smaller wheels are stronger, lighter, more aerodynamic (bigger advantage than most people realize, even at touring speeds) and more compact than similar performing large wheels, which has advantages for touring and transport. In the proper frame, tires from a 20-inch wheel rim can accept 28-52 mm width tires on the same rim, offering much more versatility than is typically available with 26-700c wheels and frames.

The smaller the wheels used, the more road shock is transmitted to the rider. This may raise rolling resistance and certainly will fatigue the rider. Mountain bike suspension used on the road is styled a little like landing gear on aircraft and is designed to take sudden, very hard impacts. It does increase potential comfort, but tends to absorb pedaling effort in many designs and may actually slow the bike down rolling resistance wise on rougher roads as it tends to overcompensate small bumps. A suspension system used on the road should be designed for the road and can decrease rider fatigue and lower rolling resistance, which can be very beneficial for touring.

Continental tire tests compared several tires, but results might vary with different brands as well. I have found that Continental tires feature very stiff side-walls which, on anything but the smoothest roads, seem to increase rolling resistance in my own simple tests. A flexible side-wall tire might have different results with wide verses narrow,

Few tire tests take into account road surface variation, bumpy verses smooth and grades in between. Certain low ranking tires might out-perform high ranking ones, if the surface is changed.

Disc Brakes are hard on spokes, frames and forks. Disc brakes on small wheels may or may not exacerbate this problem.

With tires, like most things bikes, I believe I can construct tests that will make winners out of almost anything and give conflicting conclusions.

Ideal Touring Wheel and Tire:

  • Tough enough to carry the loaded bike and rider
  • Large enough cross section to protect the rim.
  • High enough rim weight and spoke count for the job at hand, without being overly heavy
  • Small enough for easy transport
  • Easy to patch, boot, install and remove
  • Self-healing from cuts (this is not advertised, but varies a lot from tire to tire.)
  • Heavy enough to do the job, Light enough to accelerate easily
  • Low aerodynamic profile (Small narrow wheels are the best; choose smilie short- if not narrow if you have to choose one).
  • Long wear between replacements
  • Accepts a high enough pressure to protect the rim and offer low rolling resistance.
and for Off the beaten path add—
  • Ease of finding local replacement
  • Small enough for economical shipping or carrying (folding models are a plus, 20-inch folders are now available.)
  • Very long wear between replacements
  • Tough enough to survive minor falls while loaded.
  • Wide enough for some off road capability (may also be needed above)
Small wheel to high wheel, it's not only the size that matters. They all can work well.

I hope my experience has been of value.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379 USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Flying with Bikes & the TSA

It has been suggest that the prudent traveling cyclist always accompanies his/her own luggage through the TSA inspection, to see what they do and to put things back the way they are supposed to be. This idea, if you do not mind waiting, and arrived early enough (since it would naturally take a bit more time and handling), would save a lot of grief and complaints. I seem to recall requesting this in Buffalo in the summer of 2003, where upon I was rebuffed with "Absolutely not."

A printout of the official regulations in the coat pocket is always handy in this situation. I've flown my bike overseas many times for free, with a recording from an airlines 800 line stating bikes fly free internationally after initially being told there would be additional charges for the bike. I suppose with the secrecy necessary to fight terrorism so deep within our current government, actually publishing the rules would seem out of character.

Should you get placed on the "NO FLY LIST", even by accident (as some congressmen have found themselves), you will discover that there are no published criteria for this honor and no official way to get off the list. As cyclists we have a natural propensity to be seen as subversive anarchists by our very nature—as we would choose for transport or recreation the most energy efficient machine every devised, and thereby invoke class warfare against the heavily government-subsidized horseless-carriage industry and their users. As Phreds, we always must be ever vigilant—keeping our helmet mirrors pointing rearward and eyes forward.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Saddles & seat-tube angles

In the good-old days, the famous coaches used to specify an extremely slack seat angle for the longest-legged riders, but this may have been to extend the top-tube for their proportionally longer torso more than saddle position. When I was racing, we set up our bikes with many different positions over time, but it was more influenced by trends than performance. I raced well with all of them, though comfort certainly varied. These days, comfort seems to be much of a side-issue in racing.

One simple way to avoid having your rear-most parts slide off the back of the saddle is to simply raise the seat. It can be an extension issue more than seat-tube angle, but there are so many variables. As the saddle is raised, the seat angle will push the saddle rearward. The angle doesn't change, but the relative position behind the bottom bracket does. One thing about saddles: Many similar shaped saddles can change your seat posture dramatically and this is a very person-specific thing. Most modern bikes have 74° or steeper seat-tube angles, so you are limited as to how far the bottom bracket offset can be adjusted.

I know that some of our Alex Moulton models have extraordinarily slack angles—approaching 71° (some are 68°)—but they change when the suspension frame is loaded in compression. I, for one, prefer to use a straight, non-offset seatpost with most of my Moultons, which returns the effective angle/position to around 73°s or so (to match my other bikes), but most people don't bother and are very satisfied.

A custom builder can produce anything for which you are willing to pay, but many will refuse—because of the fear of ridicule for producing an odd design, or the likelihood of perceived future dissatisfaction with an odd design, if extreme.

I hope this is of value to you.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

There's toolbags, and then there's TOOLBAGS!

Motorcycle Tools-1943
So you want to fix your bike, do ya?

Motorcycle Tools-1943

As Slim Pickens once said, "Shoot, a fella could have a pretty good weekend in Vegas with all that stuff…"

Teak is the New Carbon!

Over in Portugal Xylon Bikes takes "an approach apart from what has been done so far by other enthusiasts"—cool wooden frames!

What do they Cost? To paraphase Mel Pinto, "How wood I know?"



This side of the Atlantic, we have some big downed birch trees above the spring on the farm to work with. They are seasoned and ready to go.

High-Head—better than no head at all

High Head Roadster
Roadster
The High Head Roadster-style kickstand: All current men's traditional 3-speed style have this kickstand (rear wheel wrap around; none of that troublesome bottom-bracket bolting) with built-in rack. We sell them separately but, while the attached rack is okay, some of my…more determined customers saw it off above the axle mounts! The whole rig works great on a 28-inch Raleigh DL-1 Tourist 3-speed Roadster.

Pashley Deli Bike
Deli bike
The Pashley Deli bike's large basket carrier is attached to two mounts (at least a pound of steel extra there), brazed near the back of the head-tube, and is not easily retrofitable. This, with the small front wheel, make it a surprising delight to ride—far from high-performance, but hard to equal for hauling rocks, sand, wine, groceries or large Macaws without a trailer. The mounting system lives on—in a lighter refined version—on Moulton bicycles, where their front platform and pannier racks carry touring loads with ease, stability and confidence.

Remember: At Pashley, "Wicker is the new Nylon, and Steel is the New Titanium."

P.S.: I've found a source for kickstand tips—Deluxe, made in the USA, just USD $1.40 ea.! They look sharp, and for ease of installation they handily beat the old golf-ball glued to the end approach. Everybody needs a couple! I can check, if need be, for proper fit on the dual-leg stand by Esge, but they are made for Esge and Greenfield center-mount (rear-mount is same) kickstands. Someone once asked, "How do you do it so cheap?" It's simple really: Volume, Volume, Volume! Bulk discounts on 100/1000/10,000-piece lots available.

P.P.S.: A solid kickstand comes in quite handy when making deliveries!


on the way to Smithfield You must realize, of course, that Park Tool only sells those work stands because it's so hard to grow a proper tree within the confines of a typical bike shop.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Touring, retro-style

Nothing wrong with a Superbe for touring. We had a group do the C&O towpath in the fall of 2002. There were twelve (or so) of us (the dirty dozen) that slogged through a little rain and sunshine on the 184 miles of hard dirt canal path—many on internally-geared and retro bikes.

There were three reliable Sturmey-Archer three-speeds along, and plenty of Carradice bags. I'm in the neo-retro group—I use vintage equipment, where it seems better:

  • Wool clothing (when there is no need to wash often) is preferable in all but the hottest circumstances.
  • Knickers are wonderful as they cover a wider temperature range than tights (with proper layering).
  • Canvas cycling bags are naturally waterproof, and wax can easily renew their coatings.

Primus Stove
The Primus Stove
I do like modern pack towels, stoves, etc., but the old standards are out there. The Primus Climber (also known as the Classic—the little brass cylinder style) white-gas stove has been around for over 100 years in one form or another, as have many others. (Incidentally, the truly stove-obsessed will be interested in perusing Classic Camp Stoves at SpiritBurner.com, an online venue for collectors & users of vintage camp stoves such as those made by Primus, Optimus, Radius, Svea & many others. I've got half a dozen stoves I'll bet, and that website makes me want to buy 10 more!)

My sweetheart has a Superbe that she often loads up with groceries around town. The racks used on most of those that I have seen are actually a stamped steel platform with steel tubular legs painted to match the frame. Our company imports Pashley classic cycles from the UK that are modern (neo-retro again) three-speed style bikes equipped with a similar rack. They are black and could be painted—though the black looks pretty good, or good enough to paint later. We have a limited number of these racks on hand for a bout $40.00 (or so), if you would like one.

There was an informal group in Wisconsin, I think, that had a Three-speed overnight tour arranged over the summer. I think it is an annual event. Trophy Bike Shop in Philadelphia hosts the Great British Bike Weekend every Spring—that might be worth your while to attend. People showed up from all over the country the last time I was there.

I was in scouting in the 60's and 70's and I never saw a steel tent pole, but wooden ones with steel separators were common. (Speaking of steel vs wood, over in Portugal Xylon Bikes are making these cool wooden frames!) The tents we used were too heavy (30lbs+) for decent cycling, and we never hiked with them on backpacking trips.

Another nice retro thing is a Vietnam-era rubber coated poncho, army surplus. They are absolutely waterproof and weigh about 2 lbs.. Two, snapped together, make a huge tarp or tent (the seam in middle looks bad for rain entry in tent mode). Put together a visqueen ground cloth and a surplus Mosquito bar with a long cord suspended between two trees and you have a sub-4.0 lb, retro, tent/tarp rig that is cool, provides bug protection and is easy to pack. A nylon poncho weighs about a pound less.

Army shelter half-tents (pup tents) are not light, but are cheap and easy to find. However they also suffer from that seam in the top center that worries me. Canvas can be easily waterproofed with Linseed Oil or Paraffin and Turpentine.

I'm getting way into this (sorry) but you could also find an old Green Coleman cooler and tow it on a trailer to spite the cowboys.

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com

Working in a bike shop—It's all about attitude

Disclaimer:
The opinions expressed below are from a frustrated UK shop owner with an attitude and in no way reflect North Road Bicycle Imports's attitude. Should we arrive early for critical work and find someone tapping their foot, we will continue past the shop and proceed to go for coffee, adding about fifteen miles to our morning constitutional — as many physicians of high standing caution that hurrying is not to be encouraged in our line of work.

Besides, a proper cyclist should be equipped, practiced and prepared to fix a puncture — otherwise it only encourages one to develop these problems. My father always felt that walking long distances while pushing a bicycle was a great teacher for anyone who forgot the Scout Motto: "Be Prepared."

Originally published on the web site of the North Road Bicycling Club


SO YOU THINK IT'S EASY WORKING IN A BIKE SHOP?

From the editor of the Corinium CC Newsletter (Previously published in the North Road Gazette Jan 2003)

You wake up in the morning, open up the curtains and the sun is shining which bodes well for the commute to work — of course undertaken by bike.

You arrive at work at 8.30am ready to get the shop open for 8.45am, but as you turn the corner, so you see the first customer of the day already stood outside, tapping his feet and looking at his watch impatiently. As you pull up, without him even saying good morning, he demands "I need my puncture fixed in a hurry, I'm on my way to work".

You open the shop up, go inside and put his bike up onto the workstand — all the while he's looking at his watch, tutting and murmuring something about being late. You then of course discover the wheel nuts are rounded off. Anyway, you eventually get the job done, then when you tell him the price he moans about how expensive it is but finally pays up and without so much as a thank you leaves the shop still tutting and murmuring under his breath.

The shop can then be opened up properly and your next customer comes in — another puncture — and it's the dreaded rear wheel on a three speed shopper bike! Of course the lady has just ridden through a message that a dog has left on a grass verge, so you don rubber gloves and face mask ready to dive in. Being a three-speed wheel it has a steel rim which — as everyone who has ever tried to remove a tyre from one of these rims would know — is near to impossible. Two snapped tyre levers and two lots of skin removed from knuckles later, the lady pays up and leaves the shop, satisfied as you drip blood all over the counter.

The shop goes quiet for a while but then in come two deliveries — as always you can guarantee there is something missing and it takes you half an hour to convince the supplier that the bits were not in the box and you're not trying to con parts out of him.

Then suddenly he arrives! Mr. Roadie! In his brand new Cofidis gear thinking he's David Millar. He'll start to talk to you about the merits of 9-speed Shimano Dura-Ace over 10-speed Campag Record. This banter will go on for 20 minutes before you discover that all he actually wants is a spoke key, which you have priced 1.50. He then mentions something about spotting it 1.40 in 'The Comic' (real roadies always refer to Cycling Weekly as 'The Comic'!) and can you match the price? Finally he waddles out in his Look cleats.

The next person that comes in is quite normal looking in jeans and t-shirt, but you know you're on to a loser when he starts to ask if you have Shimano part number 84A 5179. You reply with a blank stare and the question "what might that be sir?"

To which he answers, "It's the return spring for a 1995 left-hand RSX lever", as if you should have known? When you tell him that you haven't got this part in stock but you can order it from Shimano he says "I thought you were a proper bike shop and carried spares". He then asks the price and when you tell him it's 50p he says he's got to think about whether he can afford the expenditure.

Anyway, it's now getting onto time for a tea break and you can absolutely guarantee that as soon as you take a bite out of your buttie either somebody will come in or the phone will ring.

You plod on through the day until about 3.30pm when it's the dreaded going home from school time and the shop fills up with kids with no money and big ideas. You have to watch them like a hawk, for the very second you look away all of your accessories can be emptied into their school bag and they'll be out of the door.

It's getting close to closing the shop now, it's 5.30 pm and you want to go home. The shutters are down, the lights are off and bingo! — somebody pulls into the car park. When you tell them you're closed, they reply "but I need a waterproof jacket tonight", and never wanting to turn down a sale you agree reluctantly to open up. You spend the next hour-and-a-half talking about the difference between Gortex and Pertex and them trying on every jacket a least three times. Then after the hour-and-half they turn round and say "OK, I'll think about it — sorry, have I kept you open?" You'd love to punch them in the mouth, but you grit your teeth, smile politely and bid them farewell closing the door at last.

So you still want to work in a bike shop?

Yours in Cycling,
Gilbert Anderson

North Road Bicycle Imports
P.O. Box 840
166 Courthouse Square
Yanceyville, NC 27379
USA
toll free: 800-321-5511
local: 919-828-8999
e-mail: cyclestore@aol.com